The Road goes ever on and on, / Down from the door where it began. / Now far ahead the Road has gone, / And I must follow, if I can, / Pursuing it with eager feet, / Until it joins some larger way / Where many paths and errands meet. / And whither then? I cannot say. - Bilbo, The Fellowship of the Ring

Friday, October 14, 2011

Things I Love About Morocco

(in no particular order)

1. I love how people know how to enjoy life here. Everything goes at a slower pace and people aren't super stressed out all the time.
2. Being late is normal. No stress!
3. There are no drive thrus, and people barely know what coffee to go is. You sit and enjoy your coffee or meal like a normal person.
4. Moroccan tea - a staple here. It's simple: green tea steeped in mint leaves. It's the only kind of tea I've ever liked sweet, and it's only good sweet. And it's SO GOOD.


5. The food. Chicken tagine with lemon, keftah, harrira, turkey sausage, squash soup...everything is so flavorful and delicious.


6. I love that there is always a jar of nutella on my kitchen table. Yum!!
7. Service at cafes. This is not what you think it means. If you go to a cafe with an American attitude of "the customer comes first, you must serve me and cater to my every need", then you'll hate the service here. But if you're not in a hurry and you know how to relax, the cafe atmosphere and the service are a wonderful part of the culture here.
8. I love how helpful Moroccans usually are.


9. I love how it gets chilly at night.
10. I love how everyone is out at night, even on weeknights.
11. I love hanoots (a tiny shop that sells snacks and drinks). There's one right next to school and the owner is so friendly and likes teaching us Darija.
12. I love the mosaics that are everywhere.


13. I love that Moroccan meals are communal. When we eat with our host family, the main dish is on a plate in the middle of the table, and we all eat from the same plate.
14. I LOVE greeting and leaving people by kissing on both cheeks. I think I'm going to keep doing it when I go home.
15. I love living right next to a mosque.


16. I love Fridays here. One class in the morning, then home just in time to watch Friday prayers unfold, then the best meal of the week with my host family and sometimes a guest, then everyone takes a nap.
17. I also love Sundays here. Everything is so quiet.
18. I love that the drinking age is 18.
19. I love that I don't have to shower every day (well technically I can't shower every day).
20. On that strain, I love that I don't feel gross with greasy hair like I do at home.
21. I love eating dinner at 9:00 pm. There is so much more time in the afternoon and there's no rush to get home for dinner.
22. I love, love, LOVE my roommate Katherine!
23. I love that I don't have internet at home. I waste much less time.
24. I love that I live in a city and thus get to see kids and families often.


I'm sure I'll come up with many more things I love about Morocco in the next eight months!

Saturday, October 8, 2011

The Moudawana: Women in Moroccan Law

In case you didn't know, there are a lot of misperceptions in the West about Islam and the Arab world. The main reason I'm studying in Morocco is that I want to understand the people and religion and language better so that I can have and share a more complete, educated, and accurate picture of Arab culture. I'm not going to pretend to know a lot about either Islam or Arab culture, but I've recently learned a lot of interesting things about women and Moroccan laws.

I have found that some people think that if Islam is the major religion of a country, then the country is run with Islamic, or Shar'ia laws. Not true. In Morocco, most of the laws are inherited from the European colonialists (so no, thieves don't get their hands cut off). All the laws are secular except one, the Family Law, or Moudawana, which is a based on religious precepts (how much of the law is actually truly Quranic is up for debate). This law includes issues such as marriage, divorce, child custody and guardianship, parentage, inheritance, and marital property. This law has major implications for women's rights, and before it's reform in 2004, was harshly discriminatory towards women (and still is).

The 2004 reforms were focused in three main areas: marriage laws, divorce laws, and marital property laws. The marriage law reform raised the legal age of marriage for girls to 18 (it had previously been 15 for girls and 18 for guys), the Wali ("male marital tutor" who must sign the marriage contract for the girl because she can't legally sign it as a woman) was made optional (not banned, but at least it's not required anymore), and polygamy laws were reformed. Polygamy is legal in Morocco; a man is allowed up to four wives here. But since the reform, women can put a monogamy clause in their marriage contract, and if there is no monogamy clause, a man has to get judicial authorization to take another wife and must prove that he can provide for both wives, provide an exceptional reason for needing another wife, and both of the women must be notified. Other marriage law changes: a man is no longer legally the only person who can be head of a household, and women no longer have a legal duty to obey their husbands.

While all these reforms are positive theoretically, many women are unaware of their new rights, and there is a major lack of judicial enforcement. For instance, 80% of polygamist petitions are approved, even though this is supposed to be allowed only due to an exceptional reason. And a lot of girls still get married younger than 18, either by choice or because they are pressured by their family.

The divorce law reforms upheld old laws that are discriminatory towards women, but added two new types of divorce: mutual consent and irreconcilable differences. Repudiations by the husband are still legal, and the only reform that was made to it is that the woman must be present. The husband must pay compensation in order to repudiate his wife. A woman cannot repudiate her husband. She must have one of six specific reasons for divorcing. Another type of divorce is called Khula, where a woman pays her husband to repudiate her. This is actually one of the most common types of divorce since, if it's the women who wants a divorce, this is the easiest way to do it.

Premarital sex, adultery, and same sex relations are all illegal in Morocco (although, as you can imagine, these laws are rarely enforced).

One of the hardest things for me to learn about was how single (unwed) mothers and their children are treated. Since premarital sex is illegal, unwed mothers are the ones who must face the legal consequences of an unplanned pregnancy - before the laws were reformed, there was no legal way for a woman to require a paternity test from the father. Since the reforms, women have to prove that they were "engaged" to be married before they got pregnant to avoid legal consequences, and I believe they can require paternity testing. I'm not really sure about many of the details, but I do know that though the laws are less draconian now than they were before the reforms, single mothers still face societal marginalization and difficulties supporting themselves and their child. Sometimes single pregnant women give birth outside a hospital because if they go to a hospital, they might be subject to discrimination, and they might even go to jail if the police are called.

The way single mothers are treated is horrible, but perhaps even worse is the way their children were treated before the reform. Without a father, children basically did not exist. They could not have birth records because those are done on the father's side of the family. Their last name was X. They wouldn't be able to get any legal papers, including a passport, without birth records. They are referred to sometimes in records as "bastard". Some of these things changed with the reform, since now the father can be involved if the mother and father prove they were engaged before the pregnancy, but I'm not sure about when the father is not involved.

Sad stuff, right? Well, the good news is that this Wednesday I went to Casablanca on a field trip for my Women's Studies class called Gender, Islam, and Society (love the class). We went to an NGO called Association Solidarité Féminine, which helps single mothers in Casa by providing free child care, job training, and capital. ASF and the women they help run a hamam (a public bath, these are very popular here), a salon, and a bunch of kiosks around the city. The women are encouraged to save the money they earn to start their own businesses. ASF has been around since 1985, and the same woman who founded it still heads it. We were able to listen to her talk and ask her questions for about an hour. Aicha Ech Channa is an incredible woman. Watch this video if you want to learn more about ASF.

Well, I don't know if all of my faithful readers are as into human rights as I am, but I hope this was informative. In other news, it's been getting fairly chilly at night lately, but it's still quite warm during the day. I took a train with some friends to the most beautiful beach today and splurged on an EXTRA BIG egg cheeseburger for lunch and some moroccan donuts from the donut guy you will always find at any beach here (along with the coffee and tea guy and the ice cream guy, who's usually the most annoying, yelling GLACE, GLACE, ICE CREAM, ICE CREAM, GLACE, GLACE, while you're trying to relax on the sand). The big lunch was quite nice. I haven't felt really full in a while because whenever I eat good, tasty food with my host family, there are four of us and there's barely enough to go around. The rest of the time we eat food that's just kind of so-so (my host mom is not the greatest cook in the world). I also was able to utilise some Arabic phrases: "ana mukhtoba" (I'm engaged) for a friend who faced unwanted attention, and "seer fhalek" (go away) to the annoying, persistent guy who sells water out of gross goat skins. Katherine (aka the best roommate in the world) is exploring the Atlas mountains this weekend, along with my three other friends in Agdal, so I've been watching a lot of movies and chilling at the cafe by myself at night. I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how to manage going to London and either Switzerland and/or Italy for fall break in like two weeks. Hmmm, what a dilemma!

Roll tide! Beat Vandy!

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Ana Mukhtoba

The past week and a half has been a struggle. Have you ever seen a cultural adjustment graph? I was at the low point for about a week.


There is so much to say about cultural adjustment. It's hard to adjust to any foreign culture. Adjusting to the culture of a conservative, developing country as a single, independent female is especially challenging. I thought I knew that before I came, but maybe I thought that since I've been to the Middle East before I would be immune to the culture shock. Not so. The two things that have been getting to me the most: how difficult/impossible it is to go anywhere by myself (as a female) and feel comfortable, and constantly being surrounded by people and having no privacy or place to call my own.

It's so hard to find any peace and quiet around here. Part of that is due to the fact that for the first time in my life I live in a big city. Most big cities in America have nice parks where you can find some semi-solitude, but it's much harder to find an appropriate place for sitting or walking or running here. Last week I went for a walk by myself in a park near my school and will probably never go back by myself. Another morning this week I went for an early morning walk through my neighborhood. It was uneventful, but I couldn't relax and lose myself in my thoughts. Anytime I go anywhere by myself here, even in broad daylight, I have to have my guard up and usually deflect at least a couple catcalls. I'm learning to not let it get under my skin, but it's a struggle. My roommate and I had some really bad experiences walking in our neighborhood at night a couple weeks ago. Guys in cars will slow down and try to talk to us while we walk on the sidewalk. It is so, so maddening. Sometimes they just won't go away. I asked my Moroccan friend Marwan what I can say in Arabic next time that happens, and in addition to "go away", he taught me ana muhktoba, which means "I'm engaged". I'm really excited about using that one.

The other thing that's been hard for me is the constant interaction with the same small group of people every day. I love all 24 kids in my program, but I'm used to the huge, beautiful, spacious campus at the University of Alabama. At home there is always somewhere to sit and read or think or listen to music alone. Here, there is one small room at school that is exclusively the break room for study abroad students. I'm in there Monday through Friday for probably at least four hours a day between classes along with half of my classmates. I love people, but I also love having time to myself. Last weekend we took a group trip to Fez and Meknes. It was fun, but I got so claustrophobic in the huge group.

At home, when I'm stressed out or something's wrong, I know how to find an escape. But finding an escape in a foreign country is no small endeavor. It takes a lot of patience and flexibility to figure out what works for me here.

I started really missing a lot of little things about home. I miss long showers. Water is supposedly as expensive as gasoline here, so everyone is only allowed four showers a week. I missing have a freaking shower curtain. I shower in a tub with a hose that I hold and point on myself. I miss my mom's cooking, and pretty much southern cooking in general. I miss homemade chocolate chip cookies and mashed potatoes. I miss big cups of coffee. Everything here is tiny. Cups, cars, houses, shops. I miss grass. So much. I miss green mountains and fields. I miss privacy. There is no concept of privacy here. My roommate and I got home from Fez Sunday evening to find our host mom and her cousin napping in our beds. No big deal.

I know my frustrations are completely normal. I know that as I figure things out here, I'll adapt and find ways to compromise. These experiences are really, really good for me. Basically, living abroad is hard.

To end on a more positive note, I had a quite delightful day today at the Souk (market) and Kesbah (cozy quiet cafe on the water) with two wonderful girls. I bought some nice things and started my second Kindle book. Yesterday I met with the friend of a friend who's studying here on a different program, and that was so refreshing and delightful. And I'm going to church for the first time here tomorrow morning and could not be more excited! I'm super excited about getting involved and meeting people at church. Once I start meeting more people and finding more networks I think I'll feel more at home and less claustrophobic.

Finally, I became a proud aunt for the sixth time on Thursday! Jack Noble Trotter was born happy and healthy to my brother and sister-in-law. I'm so happy for them and I can't wait to meet him!

The little munchkin